When temperatures begin reaching 90 degrees the chinch bugs come marching out of the thatch layer to feed on St. Augustinegrass. Chinch bugs quickly run up the leaf shaft and inject their sucking mouthpart into tissue to inject an enzyme which breaks down the cells so they can suck the juices. This is toxic to the cells and subsequently kills the grass. The damage typically begins near concrete where the plant is more stressed by effects on the soil, particularly pH, attributable to the concrete.
We recommend preventive insecticide applications against this devastating insect. Once the damage appears, immediate curative action to arrest the spread should be taken.
There are a number of tricks to identify the chinch bug in action, or go to agrilifebookstore.org to learn more about this prolific summer insect. However, birds pecking at the lawn are probably foraging on the chinch bugs: conclude research; do something!
That could include a call to our office to schedule service to verify the diagnosis and make appropriate product applications to cure the problem.
Let say it is too late and the lawn is dead we can paint it like nothing happened.
Wednesday, June 10, 2009
Saturday, May 23, 2009
Mosquitoes
Mosquitoes not only annoy people, they transmit disease-causing organisms to humans and animals. The information which follows may help in combating this irritating insect.
The mosquito has four distinct stages in its life cycle, three of which require standing water. They feed on nectar, plant sap and other sources of liquid carbohydrates. The female requires a blood-protein meal to produce eggs. Adults typically live no more than a month and they seldom travel more than a couple hundred yards from their breeding sites. Logically, control efforts should be focused on areas where they breed and where they feed.
They breed in standing water: eliminate as much of that as possible and treat the rest. I recommend Mosquito Dunks; a solid briquette which contains a bacterium called BT. They dissolve gradually in water and kill immature stages of the mosquito. They can be used in dog water bowls, horse troughs, and bird baths and “installed” in ditches and areas where rain water collects.
They have two food sources: animals and plants, which complicates the issue. Wildlife and birds (where they may get West Nile Virus) are on their own. Humans can reduce exposure by staying indoors during heavy feeding times (morning and dusk), using insect repellents that contain DEET, and not inviting birds into the yard with feeders and baths.
Plants should be treated with an insecticide labeled for that purpose. Mix the product per the label directions and apply it to the underside of vegetation where the insects rest and collect food during the daylight. Also apply it around decks, eaves and gutters
For the best, long-term control use a microencapsulated insecticide formulation. Microencapsulated means the insecticide is enclosed in a microscopic “bead” of sorts, which protects it from rain and UV rays as it sits on the plant surface, where it is easily picked up by insects. The particle surface soon cracks and releases the insecticide. I recommend pyrethroids such Cykick CS or Demand CS, which can be purchased at Estes, Inc. or Katy Chemical (other locations as well, but probably not the hardware or home improvement stores).
The mosquito has four distinct stages in its life cycle, three of which require standing water. They feed on nectar, plant sap and other sources of liquid carbohydrates. The female requires a blood-protein meal to produce eggs. Adults typically live no more than a month and they seldom travel more than a couple hundred yards from their breeding sites. Logically, control efforts should be focused on areas where they breed and where they feed.
They breed in standing water: eliminate as much of that as possible and treat the rest. I recommend Mosquito Dunks; a solid briquette which contains a bacterium called BT. They dissolve gradually in water and kill immature stages of the mosquito. They can be used in dog water bowls, horse troughs, and bird baths and “installed” in ditches and areas where rain water collects.
They have two food sources: animals and plants, which complicates the issue. Wildlife and birds (where they may get West Nile Virus) are on their own. Humans can reduce exposure by staying indoors during heavy feeding times (morning and dusk), using insect repellents that contain DEET, and not inviting birds into the yard with feeders and baths.
Plants should be treated with an insecticide labeled for that purpose. Mix the product per the label directions and apply it to the underside of vegetation where the insects rest and collect food during the daylight. Also apply it around decks, eaves and gutters
For the best, long-term control use a microencapsulated insecticide formulation. Microencapsulated means the insecticide is enclosed in a microscopic “bead” of sorts, which protects it from rain and UV rays as it sits on the plant surface, where it is easily picked up by insects. The particle surface soon cracks and releases the insecticide. I recommend pyrethroids such Cykick CS or Demand CS, which can be purchased at Estes, Inc. or Katy Chemical (other locations as well, but probably not the hardware or home improvement stores).
Friday, March 20, 2009
You may have found yourself admiring the beautiful white blooms on trees that line the Grand Parkway in Katy. These trees are Bradford Pears or, as some call them, Fruitless Pears. In bloom, the plant is really pretty and, unfortunately, vulnerable to a virus that can be carried on the wind or by insects. The virus enters through the blossom and kills the circulatory system of the leaves on the branch, causing the leaves to turn a copper brown color. While a few infected limbs probably will not affect the overall health of the tree, it surely can make it look awful.
The disease is called Fire Blight and the only remedy is a spray application of agricultural grade streptomycin, which should be made now. In a few weeks it will have no effect, so now is the time to call JNJ Pest Control and Grounds Care to treat your Bradford Pears.
The disease is called Fire Blight and the only remedy is a spray application of agricultural grade streptomycin, which should be made now. In a few weeks it will have no effect, so now is the time to call JNJ Pest Control and Grounds Care to treat your Bradford Pears.
Sunday, March 15, 2009
Termites Celebrate Spring Break in Katy
March is the time that college coeds have taken to the sandy beaches at some tropical destination where they frolic in the surf at day and dance all night after gorging themselves on island fare for their right of passage for the spring vacation break.
Termites have the same biological urges, but they have selected Katy, TX as their venue. The termites attracted to over watered wood mulched beds that cover weep holes making easy access to wood structure of residences. At this time of the year the reproductives, dubbed swarmers, are empowered to jump into the wind to finally be discovered on the hard wood floor of their new vacation spot.
What to do to insure the safety of people and property you care. The children I cannot h
elp but termites I can. First walk around your house and look for mud shelter tubes about the size of a strap on a string bikini coming out of the ground to your structure. Another tail-tell sign are mud protrusions on sheetrock walls which are built by termites workers to provide jumping off ramps for swarming winged termites like the divers in Acapulco..
JNJ Pest Control and Grounds Care can arrest termites from your structure. And like a conscientious parent JNJ is best at preventing the unfortunate consequences.
Termites have the same biological urges, but they have selected Katy, TX as their venue. The termites attracted to over watered wood mulched beds that cover weep holes making easy access to wood structure of residences. At this time of the year the reproductives, dubbed swarmers, are empowered to jump into the wind to finally be discovered on the hard wood floor of their new vacation spot.What to do to insure the safety of people and property you care. The children I cannot h
elp but termites I can. First walk around your house and look for mud shelter tubes about the size of a strap on a string bikini coming out of the ground to your structure. Another tail-tell sign are mud protrusions on sheetrock walls which are built by termites workers to provide jumping off ramps for swarming winged termites like the divers in Acapulco..JNJ Pest Control and Grounds Care can arrest termites from your structure. And like a conscientious parent JNJ is best at preventing the unfortunate consequences.
Thursday, February 26, 2009
Deweed Weed and Feed
Temperatures are rising; hours of sunshine increasing. St. Augustine-grass is slowly coming out of dormancy. Last years chinch bugs left some lawns nearly bare ground and the ugly faces of weeds dominate. A weed is any plant that ain’t supposed to be there, whether it’s a grassy or broadleaf variety.
Faced with the unsightly mess, homeowners purchase some brand of “weed and feed” in hopes of accomplishing two goals with one pass of the spreader. Multi-tasking has its place, but this isn’t one of them. The herbicide – “weed” component in the mix - cannot differentiate between a dandelion and a begonia. Further, the commonly-included herbicide Atrazine has some residual effect in the soil that will kill new runners of St. Augustine attempting to move into the bare areas. Most fertilizers recommend immediate, heavy watering: Atrazine is very water soluble chemical. If applied near a tree or shrub it will leach into soil or mulch and damage those plants.
The recommended strategy for dealing with the problem is: (1) mow the lawn; (2) three days or so later, apply a slow release nitrogen fertilizer with a 3-1-2 ratio and micronutrients; (3) apply a selective liquid herbicide directly to the weeds. Don’t spray weed killer over the entire lawn: the same problems as with the granular product may occur, amplified by wind-drift onto foliage. Attack the weeds one-by-one, using a pump sprayer with something as simple as a paper cup to prevent drift of the liquid mixture onto non-targeted plants.
Promoting a healthy and dense lawn is the best prevention for weeds; next September, use a preemergent herbicide to reduce the number of spring weeds.
Using the services of a licensed lawn care professional such as JNJ Pest Control and Grounds Care will eliminate your bothering with the chemistry and give you the desired beautiful green lawn.
Faced with the unsightly mess, homeowners purchase some brand of “weed and feed” in hopes of accomplishing two goals with one pass of the spreader. Multi-tasking has its place, but this isn’t one of them. The herbicide – “weed” component in the mix - cannot differentiate between a dandelion and a begonia. Further, the commonly-included herbicide Atrazine has some residual effect in the soil that will kill new runners of St. Augustine attempting to move into the bare areas. Most fertilizers recommend immediate, heavy watering: Atrazine is very water soluble chemical. If applied near a tree or shrub it will leach into soil or mulch and damage those plants.
The recommended strategy for dealing with the problem is: (1) mow the lawn; (2) three days or so later, apply a slow release nitrogen fertilizer with a 3-1-2 ratio and micronutrients; (3) apply a selective liquid herbicide directly to the weeds. Don’t spray weed killer over the entire lawn: the same problems as with the granular product may occur, amplified by wind-drift onto foliage. Attack the weeds one-by-one, using a pump sprayer with something as simple as a paper cup to prevent drift of the liquid mixture onto non-targeted plants.
Promoting a healthy and dense lawn is the best prevention for weeds; next September, use a preemergent herbicide to reduce the number of spring weeds.
Using the services of a licensed lawn care professional such as JNJ Pest Control and Grounds Care will eliminate your bothering with the chemistry and give you the desired beautiful green lawn.
Deweed Weed and Feed
Temperatures are rising; hours of sunshine increasing. St. Augustine-grass is slowly coming out of dormancy. Last years chinch bugs left some lawns nearly bare ground and the ugly faces of weeds dominate. A weed is any plant that ain’t supposed to be there, whether it’s a grassy or broadleaf variety.
Faced with the unsightly mess, homeowners purchase some brand of “weed and feed” in hopes of accomplishing two goals with one pass of the spreader. Multi-tasking has its place, but this isn’t one of them. The herbicide – “weed” component in the mix - cannot differentiate between a dandelion and a begonia. Further, the commonly-included herbicide Atrazine has some residual effect in the soil that will kill new runners of St. Augustine attempting to move into the bare areas. Most fertilizers recommend immediate, heavy watering: Atrazine is very water soluble chemical. If applied near a tree or shrub it will leach into soil or mulch and damage those plants.
The recommended strategy for dealing with the problem is: (1) mow the lawn; (2) three days or so later, apply a slow release nitrogen fertilizer with a 3-1-2 ratio and micronutrients; (3) apply a selective liquid herbicide directly to the weeds. Don’t spray weed killer over the entire lawn: the same problems as with the granular product may occur, amplified by wind-drift onto foliage. Attack the weeds one-by-one, using a pump sprayer with something as simple as a paper cup to prevent drift of the liquid mixture onto non-targeted plants.
Promoting a healthy and dense lawn is the best prevention for weeds; next September, use a preemergent herbicide to reduce the number of spring weeds.
Using the services of a licensed lawn care professional such as JNJ Pest Control and Grounds Care will eliminate your bothering with the chemistry and give you the desired beautiful green lawn.
Faced with the unsightly mess, homeowners purchase some brand of “weed and feed” in hopes of accomplishing two goals with one pass of the spreader. Multi-tasking has its place, but this isn’t one of them. The herbicide – “weed” component in the mix - cannot differentiate between a dandelion and a begonia. Further, the commonly-included herbicide Atrazine has some residual effect in the soil that will kill new runners of St. Augustine attempting to move into the bare areas. Most fertilizers recommend immediate, heavy watering: Atrazine is very water soluble chemical. If applied near a tree or shrub it will leach into soil or mulch and damage those plants.
The recommended strategy for dealing with the problem is: (1) mow the lawn; (2) three days or so later, apply a slow release nitrogen fertilizer with a 3-1-2 ratio and micronutrients; (3) apply a selective liquid herbicide directly to the weeds. Don’t spray weed killer over the entire lawn: the same problems as with the granular product may occur, amplified by wind-drift onto foliage. Attack the weeds one-by-one, using a pump sprayer with something as simple as a paper cup to prevent drift of the liquid mixture onto non-targeted plants.
Promoting a healthy and dense lawn is the best prevention for weeds; next September, use a preemergent herbicide to reduce the number of spring weeds.
Using the services of a licensed lawn care professional such as JNJ Pest Control and Grounds Care will eliminate your bothering with the chemistry and give you the desired beautiful green lawn.
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